Volcanic venture

Chilean border control was somewhat different to other border controls I’ve been through. Where most borders would be equipped with drug dogs or metal detectors, to cross from Argentina into Chile by land, you have to pass the vegetable sniffer dog test. All passengers and bags are unloaded from the buses, and a dog runs through sniffing for fruit and vegetables. Imagine being arrested for the illegal importing of a tomato. At least it would be a story that would surprise people, I guess. Anyway, having successfully crossed the border without any vegetable related trouble, we soon arrived in Pucón, a cute little town on the shores of a lake in southern Chile. We checked ourselves into Hashtag Hostel, which was a pleasant albeit relatively new hostel, and spent the afternoon exploring the charming town of Pucón.

Volcán Villarrica, near Pucón

The next day, we spent the morning relaxing at the hostel before going to the famous nearby geothermal baths. Due to the town’s location near several volcanoes, you can find an abundance of hot springs nearby, varying in quality and price. The ones we chose to go to were the Termas Geométricas, and although they were slightly pricier than some of the others at around £35 for a visit, they were also very highly rated, and it was evident why. The baths are set amongst stunning greenery, and red wooden bridges lead you from one bath to the next, creating a very pleasing aesthetic. The baths range in temperature from 6 degrees to about 42 degrees (Celsius) so you can take a cool dip to mix it up a bit every now and again, as the hot pools can get a bit overwhelming. At the top of the pathway there’s a little waterfall, which adds to the natural beauty of the place, although probably isn’t spectacular enough to warrant the 15 minute queue of people wanting to take a photo in front of it, but each to their own.

Termas Geométricas

After a much-needed day of relaxation, we had booked to climb an active volcano the following day. We booked this incredible experience through Summit Chile, and it cost 80000 Chilean pesos if paying in cash, or 85000 if paying by card, so about £90-95, but trust me when I say it was worth every penny. Summit Chile provide you with top grade equipment and experienced guides, as well as giving you beer upon return to the office to celebrate the fact you just climbed an ACTUAL volcano. So the idea is you climb up the volcano and then sleigh back down it. Yes, sleigh. This confused me at first because I didn’t understand how a volcano could be sleighed down, but turns out the top half of it is actually a glacier so there’s plenty of snow to allow you to scoot down on your sleigh. Jen and I opted to get the cable car up the first part of the volcano, along with most of the rest of our group, as this part was not covered in snow, meaning you would be climbing on loose dirt, which would drain a lot of the energy you would need further up.

On the climb

When we got off the cable car, we clipped on our crampons, put on our extra layers, and started the trek up to the summit. It was bitterly cold, and the wind was blowing pretty harshly in our faces, but despite this, we were still having fun. About a quarter of the way up, the climb became steeper, and we had to get out our ice picks to use alongside our walking pole to help us balance. One of the guides went ahead, using his ice pick to create a path for us as he went. At some point, we reached what they call the ‘false summit’. It is called this because as you approach it, it looks as if you have reached the top of the volcano. This is about three hours in so obviously you’re ecstatic to be reaching the top. As you get over the edge, you realise that actually, you’re not at the top, and you still have about an hour and a half to go to reach the top. The ecstatic feeling you had a few seconds ago is blown away by the even harsher, colder winds that are hitting your face now that there is nothing to shelter you from the elements. For a moment, you want to give up, because you’re cold and miserable. Then you remember the near 100 flipping pounds you spent to do this, and you keep going.

View halfway up

Now, I’m sure none of that sounds that enticing. I’m sure you’re wondering why on earth I would recommend such a thing, with nothing but the promise of free beer at the end to go off. I promise you though, every single step of the way seems worth it when you reach the summit and put on your (highly stylish) gas mask. You are literally standing on the edge of an active volcano crater. The feeling of euphoria at having completed the climb is overwhelming, and the weariness you felt before practically disappears. Then you look at the view of the valley and the lake, see the other volcanoes in the distance, and you almost forget that the volcano you’re standing on last erupted as recently as 2015, and could erupt again at any given moment. It is truly the most amazing experience, up there in my top 5 life experiences, and yes, I would recommend it to anyone, and yes, I would absolutely do it again.

At the summit with my gas mask

Un beso,
Lola